Starting Out

[Vanessa Gaudette]

I am starting out with both a Nikon Coolpix S220 and a Panasonic Lumix. I get great closeups with my Coolpix, very detailed and great landscape shots with the Panasonic. Is there a way I can get both of these cameras to do the same quality of work? I know it's gotta be me and I am stumped.

[Steven Love]

Hello Vanessa.
I used Olympus for a long time and just started using a Nikon D2XS, which is their professional grade camera.
If both cameras have the same image resolution then it could simply be a matter of setting them properly.
I've found that Program Mode, also known as "P" Mode, works best for landscapes because it will let the camera software choose the optimum shutter and aperture setting relative to the lighting available.

"P" Mode does also work pretty good for closeups but if you're not close enough to the subject then the background will also come into focus which you don't want for macros or closeups.

If you want the background blurred in your closeups you may need to use the Manual Mode in which shutter and aperture are controlled by you, or you can try Aperture Priority in which you control the aperture for depth of field and the shutter is left on automatic.

The drawback on these is that if you don't have a enough light you'll have to use the flash because with manual modes the camera might not fully compensate for lower light levels.

Hope this helps.

[Vanessa Gaudette]

Hi Steven - Thanks for the feedback. Maybe I could pick your brain on another issue. I had a few photos turned down for exposure issues, but two of them (I think) are set at good levels and accurately reflected the natural environment at that time. I know you mentioned the "P" mode and you're right-using the Landscape mode is excellent. I don't know, maybe I need to go back to the owner's manual on the Lumix, this seems to be the more complicated one. Any thoughts on exposure levels?

[Steven Love]

Hello Vanessa.
Sorry for the late reply. Sometimes I forget to check this forum for replies.
To answer your question; It is always best to consult the manual because each brand of camera has different features. I used Olympus for many years and when I switched to Nikon I discovered a big difference in the way the controls operate on the Nikon compared to the Olympus.
As far as rejections for exposure I've had my share of rejects for that same issue.
That's why you need Photoshop or some other comparable photo-editing program because the camera does not always compensate for natural variations in light reflecting off of the subject.
Photoshop does for digital images what an old fashioned Dark Room did for Film cameras.

In Photoshop go to the Image Tab and then go to Adjustments. In the drop down menu for Adjustments you'll see a section for "Exposure".
In the Exposure adjustments you'll see three settings, one for Gamma, one for Off-Set and another for Exposure levels.
You'll have to play around with these to get a feel for how they work. But once you do you'll be able to improve your quality issues.
Remember, not every shot will come out of the camera perfect. Always inspect them with Photoshop to see if they can be adjusted, even if it is only slightly.
And also remember that an image might appear brighter on an LCD screen so take that into account when making your adjustments.

Hope this helps.
Steve

[Vanessa Gaudette]

Thanks Steve! I hope to save up for a photo editing software and start using it. Not to sound like too much of a newbie, but I use the editing software in Windows Photo Gallery for now. It's not great, kinda like starting fires with rocks before matches were invented, but it seems to do the trick, almost. I usually adjust (slightly) the brightness, contrast and color saturation. These seem to have the best effect creating a clearer, defined photo. You're probably cringing :) Hey! Kudos on your award. I went to the website you gave me the link to and I could see your artwork much better than with the thumbnail. That is cool. I like your cat playing with the top of your head..ha ha. Thanks again
Vanessa

[Steven Love]

You're welcome.
We all started off as newbies.
When I first started out back in 2003 I was using a little point and shoot 4 megapixel camera. I was mostly just shooting reference photos to use in my digital artwork. I was not until 2006 that I started shooting for stock sites. I also used to use a windows program called "Microsoft Picture It". It was adequate for the time. But you will need photoshop eventually, so save those pennies.

[Steve Huss]

Hi Vanessa and Steve,
Thought I'd toss my 2 cents in if you don't mind. Photoshop can be excellent at correcting many things, there are a couple of ways to adjust exposure, and Steve's way is good. Here is one more for you to try when you get Photoshop, this works very well and is so easy to do...Make a duplicate layer, change the blending mode to screen, adjust the opacity of the screen layer to your liking and then flatten the image..I know this probably may not make much sense to you now, but copy these instructions for future reference. It is a very easy way to correct underexposure in a non-destructive manner to your original image (provided you don't flatten it) once flattened it is too late. Always save your original in a seperate folder. Can I recommend a good book????? "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson. It will be some of the best money you can spend on a reference book that will last you forever. I refer to mine all the time. One last thought....are you checking your histograms??? They are a nice quick reference to see if the shadows and highlights are falling out of range.

Hey Steven,
check out the exposure correction method I explained and let me know what you think??? I would like to know.

[Steven Love]

Hello Steve.
I've actually done the duplicate layer method myself a few times.
It works good for images that need a lot of work where using the other exposure adjustments would create a lot of noise. But you do have to play around with the opacity of the second layer to get it right, otherwise you get spots of over exposure.

[Vanessa Gaudette]

Hi Steve - thanks for the advice on Photoshop. I'm operating low tech right now with just the Nikon and Panasonic and no "real" editing software. I will certainly take your advice to heart and try it out when I get Photoshop. I've been using the Nikon pretty exclusively of late and there is no histogram function on it, but the Panasonic does so I will see about trying that. I will certainly look for the book because I am still struggling with the right exposure, especially in extreme circumstances such as bright sunny days or cloudy days. Thanks again!

[Steve Huss]

Hi Steve,

True enough. It is a quick, down and dirty method. I don't use it much anymore, but it has it's place. Thanks for the response.

[david roy fulton]

Vanessa,
if you need some photo editting programs that are free go to www.filehippo.com
You will find several photo editting programs in this site . also you can download photoshop elements /corel and several other progams on a free trial to see which one you like best.
Remember when doing landscape shots to have your f/stops at f22 or more so everything will come out sharp and crisp in the photo. you will have to put the camera on a tripod because at f22 the shutter speed will be slow. use a time delay on your camera to reduse camera nose/ shake. or a remote if you have one.
Happy shooting David

[Vanessa Gaudette]

Thanks David! I already use FileHippo for some other things and I didn't even think to look for things related to photography. I'll take a look. Thanks again.
Vanessa